Inspired by an article Mae found on Lowes.com, we decided to build a headboard for our bedroom. There was very little specification in the Lowe’s article [original link dead; see Wayback Machine archived page], so the first step was to reverse-engineer some dimensions and design details, along with listing the materials needed:
I figured out the overall overall size – 80″ width, 44″ height (includes furring-strip border) – and determined the furring strips are actually 4″ rather than the 3″ stated in the Lowe’s article.
Materials
| Item | Details | QTY | Price/ea | Link |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| OSB sheathing (for backing board) | 1/2″x4’x8′ | 2 | $41.57 | Lowe’s Item #12213 |
| Furring strips | 1″x4″x8′ | 21 | $2.78 | Lowe’s Item #4510 |
| Brad nails | 1″ 18Ga | 1000-pack | $5.98 | Lowe’s Item #140338 |
| Plywood (for cleat) | 3/4″x2’x4′ | 1 | $20.68 | Lowe’s Item #7710 |
| Stain | Minwax Provincial 211 | 1 qt | $7.98 | Lowe’s Item #85931 |
Build
I cut the backing board to size first.
Then we lay down blue chalk lines to guide the pattern layout. I calculated the chevron angles and set up the miter saw to cut all of each angle at a time. I iteratively tuned in the angle to align each board miter both with each other and chalk lines.
I cut all needed pieces at the first angle.
I installed finishing nails to affix all first-angle furring strips to the backing board.
Then I switched to the second angle. Since it’s more than 45deg, this required a jig (learned from this video). Like the first angle, I iteratively cut a test piece to tune in the proper angle for alignment with the already-cut miters and the backing board’s chalk lines.
We trimmed all the overhanging furring strips flush with backing board. The only way to ensure a flush cut is to trim minimally into the backing board as well.
We sanded the headboard’s face several times w/ 120 then 220 grit.
I created a french cleat out of 3/4″ plywood to hang the headboard on the wall (cleat screwed into wall studs). More info here and here. I made the angled cut with a circular saw. I cut the pointy tips off so any junk in the groove doesn’t prevent full engagement.
We cut the furring strips to use as a casing, then sanded and attached them.
I beveled the bottom ends and sanded any other sharp edges.
We offset the casing rearward to cover the headboard’s standoff from the wall (necessary to accomodate the french cleat).
We opted to omit the bottom border since it would protrude over the bed and not be visible.
Mae applied stain after I blew and vacuumed all the sanding sawdust out.
Reference
Lowes.com | The Weekender Season 1, Episode 4: “Massive Master”
East Coast Creative | Master Bedroom Makeover + DIY Wooden Headboard
YouTube | Popular Woodworking: How to Make French Cleats | Tricks of the Trade
YouTube | Specific Love Creations: 15 Things to Avoid with French Cleats
YouTube | Sawdust and Wood: How to cut over 45 degrees on your miter saw!